In the heart of the Sahel's olive-covered plains, between Sousse and Sfax, the small town of El Jem hides one of the most striking monuments in all of Roman Africa. Its amphitheatre appears suddenly at the end of the streets, huge and golden, towering over everything around it. Even if you have seen the photos, the first encounter is a genuine shock, and it is often the memory travellers keep longest from their trip to Tunisia.
In Roman times the town was called Thysdrus and grew wealthy on the olive oil trade. It was here, in 238, that the proconsul Gordian was proclaimed emperor, and the construction of the amphitheatre is dated to this same period. Listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1979, it ranks among the largest amphitheatres of the Roman world and remains remarkably well preserved, galleries and underground passages included.
Yet El Jem is more than its stone giant. The archaeological museum houses superb mosaics found in the wealthy villas of Thysdrus, and the town keeps the unhurried pace of a Sahel farming community. Easy to reach from Sousse, Monastir or Kairouan, it makes an ideal day trip, but it rewards those who take their time, especially in the late afternoon when the stone turns the colour of honey.
What to see and do
El Jem Amphitheatre
Climb to the upper tiers to grasp the sheer scale of the arena and enjoy the view over the town and olive groves. Take time to walk all the way around the building, whose façade of stacked arcades is one of the most photogenic in Tunisia.
The arena's underground passages
Beneath the arena floor you can explore the corridors and cells where wild animals were kept and the shows were prepared. It gives a very concrete sense of how the games and a Roman amphitheatre actually worked.
The Archaeological Museum
It brings together magnificent mosaics from the houses of Thysdrus, with animal, mythological and everyday-life scenes. The entrance ticket is usually shared with the amphitheatre; check on site.
The reconstructed Roman house
Next to the museum, a Roman villa has been rebuilt with its courtyard, reception rooms and mosaic floors. It helps you picture how the notables of Thysdrus lived.
The small amphitheatre and remains of Thysdrus
Near the museum, the remains of an older, more modest amphitheatre show that the town had more than one arena. The surrounding archaeological park also preserves villa foundations.
The Symphonic Music Festival
In summer the amphitheatre hosts the El Jem International Symphonic Music Festival. Attending a night concert in this setting is a unique experience; check the official programme each year.
Our tips
- Arrive early in the morning to enjoy an almost empty amphitheatre in soft light.
- Bring a hat, water and comfortable shoes: there are lots of steps and little shade.
- Don't skip the museum, often overlooked even though its mosaics are among the finest in the country.
- Combine your visit with Sousse, Monastir or Kairouan for a rewarding day out in the Sahel.
- If you visit in summer, check the festival dates: a concert in the arena is well worth it.
Frequently asked questions
Is El Jem amphitheatre really one of the largest in the Roman world?
Yes, it ranks among the largest amphitheatres built by the Romans and is one of the best preserved. That is why it has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1979.
Can I visit El Jem as a day trip?
Absolutely. Most travellers come from Sousse, Monastir, Mahdia or Sfax and head back in the evening. Half a day covers the essentials, leaving time to add another stop.
Do I need a guide to visit the amphitheatre?
It isn't essential, as the site is easy to understand on your own. An official guide does, however, bring fascinating insight into the history of Thysdrus and how the games worked; ask at the site entrance.
