Tunis is often where your trip begins, and it deserves far more than a quick stopover. The capital brings two worlds together: the medina, a UNESCO World Heritage Site with covered souks, mosques and palaces, and the colonial-era city, where Avenue Habib Bourguiba and its Art Nouveau and Art Deco façades recall early 20th-century Paris. This is the city where we live, work and go out, far from a frozen postcard.
A few train stops away, on the shore of the gulf, lie the remains of Carthage, also a UNESCO site. Founded, according to tradition, by Phoenician settlers from Tyre, the Punic city was Rome's great rival until its destruction in 146 BC. Rebuilt by the Romans, it became one of the major cities of Roman Africa. The sites are scattered across a residential district and are best explored as a trail.
In between, the Bardo National Museum holds one of the finest collections of Roman mosaics in the world, an essential stop for understanding the country's history. Allow at least two days for the medina, the Bardo and Carthage, adding Sidi Bou Said right next door. Tunis is also a convenient base for trips to Cap Bon, Dougga or Bizerte.
What to see and do
The Medina of Tunis
Founded around the Zitouna Mosque, the medina is a maze of specialised souks: perfume makers, chechia hat makers, textiles, goldsmiths. Its lanes also hide palaces, madrasas and tourbas, the mausoleums of the beys. Let the craft guilds lead you to understand how it is organised.
The Zitouna Mosque
The spiritual and intellectual heart of the medina since the Middle Ages, the Great Zitouna Mosque long housed one of the oldest universities in the Muslim world. Its reused ancient columns bear witness to the site's long history. Access for non-Muslims is limited; ask on site.
The Bardo National Museum
Housed in a former beylical palace, the Bardo displays an exceptional collection of Roman mosaics, including the famous depiction of Virgil flanked by the Muses. Its galleries also cover the Punic, early Christian and Islamic periods. Check opening conditions before your visit.
The Antonine Baths
Built in the 2nd century on the seafront, they were among the largest baths in the Roman Empire. The imposing ruins help you picture the scale of Roman Carthage. The setting facing the gulf is one of the most photogenic on the site.
Byrsa Hill and the Punic ports
Byrsa Hill, the historic heart of the city, offers a panoramic view over the gulf and is home to the Carthage Museum and the remains of a Punic quarter. Below, the Punic ports still keep the shape of the ancient circular naval harbour. The tophet, a Punic sanctuary, is nearby.
Avenue Habib Bourguiba
The main artery of the modern city, lined with ficus trees, runs from the Porte de France to the clock tower on 14 January Square. Along it you will pass the Municipal Theatre and the Cathedral of St Vincent de Paul. It is the ideal place for a pavement café and some people-watching.
Our tips
- At Carthage, ask about the combined ticket covering several sites and museums; check the conditions on site.
- Bring a hat, water and sunscreen for Carthage: the remains are spread out and offer little shade.
- In the medina many shops close on Sundays; choose another day to enjoy the souks at their liveliest.
- Head up to a rooftop terrace in the medina to admire the rooftops and the Zitouna minaret from above.
- The TGM is the easiest and most local way to combine Carthage and Sidi Bou Said on the same day.
Frequently asked questions
How many days should I spend in Tunis and Carthage?
Two days let you see the essentials: one for the medina and the Bardo Museum, another for Carthage and Sidi Bou Said. With a third day, you can add a trip to Dougga or Cap Bon.
What remains of Punic Carthage?
Punic Carthage was destroyed by Rome in 146 BC, and most of the visible ruins are Roman. A few Punic remains survive, however: the quarter on Byrsa Hill, the Punic ports and the tophet. The Carthage Museum helps put these traces in context.
Can I explore the Medina of Tunis on my own?
Yes, the medina is easy to explore on foot by yourself, starting from the Porte de France. The lanes may seem like a labyrinth, but the main routes converge on the Zitouna Mosque. Just be wary of people who spontaneously offer to guide you to a terrace or a shop.
