At the foot of the Dahar hills, Matmata catches you off guard. At first glance the landscape looks almost empty, all ochre hills and dry earth. Then you notice wide craters cut into the ground. These are troglodyte homes, lived in for generations by Berber families who found underground the best shelter from the summer heat and the cold of winter nights.
Each dwelling is built around an open-air central courtyard, with rooms carved straight into the soft rock: bedrooms, storerooms, a kitchen. Some families still live here and happily welcome visitors for a glass of tea or bread baked in a tabouna oven. This one-of-a-kind architecture also drew filmmakers, most famously for the first Star Wars film, partly shot here.
Matmata is also a gateway to the Berber south: hilltop villages such as Tamezret and Toujane, mountain roads and sweeping views over the Gabès plain. Many travellers pass through on the way to Douz or Djerba, but the village deserves more than a quick photo stop. Take time to walk among the hills at sunset, when the light turns the earth almost red.
What to see and do
The troglodyte homes
Step down into a dwelling dug around its circular courtyard to understand a way of life shaped by the climate. Several families welcome visitors and show the rooms, storerooms and everyday utensils.
The Star Wars set
A troglodyte house in Matmata stood in for Luke Skywalker's home on the planet Tatooine in the 1977 film. Fans from all over the world come to see the courtyard and rooms they recognise from the screen.
Tamezret
This Berber village clinging to a hillside offers stone houses, a white mosque and wide views over the region. It is one of the villages where the Berber language is still spoken.
Toujane
Perched on the slopes of the Dahar hills, Toujane overlooks a landscape of ravines and terraces. The mountain road leading there is one of the most beautiful in the south-east, best driven slowly.
The hills at sunset
Late in the day, climb one of the heights around the village to watch the craters of the homes take shape in the low light. It is the best time for photos and for cooler air.
Bread and tea with a local family
Flatbread from the traditional oven, served with olive oil and mint tea, is often part of a visit to a troglodyte home. A simple moment that says a lot about southern hospitality.
Our tips
- Always ask before entering a troglodyte home or photographing its residents: these are people's homes, not just tourist sites.
- Bring water and a hat, even for a short walk: the sun is strong on these shadeless hills.
- If you take the mountain road to Toujane, drive carefully and avoid the winding sections after dark.
- Carry a few dinars in cash to thank the families who welcome you or to buy a small handmade souvenir.
- Combine Matmata with Douz or Djerba for a coherent southern loop rather than a simple out-and-back trip.
Frequently asked questions
Do people still live in the troglodyte homes?
Yes, some families still live in troglodyte dwellings, although many have moved to the new town built on the plain. Several homes can be visited with the owners' permission, often over a glass of tea.
Where was Star Wars filmed in Matmata?
A troglodyte house in the village, now converted to welcome guests, served as Luke Skywalker's home. It is open to visitors and draws many fans of the saga.
Is Matmata worth an overnight stay?
Staying the night lets you enjoy the quiet evening and the morning light, when the village is at its most beautiful. If you are short on time, a well-planned half day covers the essentials.
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