The route is done by car, mostly on paved roads; trips into the dunes are made with local guides, by camel or 4x4. It is ideal from October to April: in summer the heat makes the days very exhausting. It combines very well with a stay on Djerba.
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Day 1 — Matmata
Head to Matmata, a Berber village famous for its troglodyte dwellings dug around circular courtyards in the rock. Some families open their homes to visitors: a chance to see how these houses, cool in summer and mild in winter, are organised, and to share tea or bread baked over a wood fire. Film lovers will recognise the troglodyte house used as Luke Skywalker's childhood home in Star Wars. In the afternoon, make a detour to Tamezret, a hilltop village of stone houses, before taking the road to Douz across the Dahar plateau.
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Day 2 — Douz
Douz, the "gateway to the Sahara", is the ideal base for approaching the Grand Erg Oriental. Get up early for a camel ride in the dunes at dawn, when the light is at its best and the heat still gentle; an outing at the end of the day for sunset is just as magical. Then stop at the Sahara Museum, devoted to nomadic life, and wander through the palm grove and the market. If you come in winter, ask about the International Festival of the Sahara. For a night in a desert camp, book only with a well-established operator.
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Day 3 — Chott el-Jerid and Tozeur
Cross Chott el-Jerid on the long road that runs through the middle of the country's largest salt lake: salt crusts, pink or white reflections depending on the season, and frequent mirages. In Tozeur, discover the Ouled El Hadef quarter, whose fired-brick facades form unique geometric patterns. Explore the palm grove by horse-drawn carriage or by bike to understand the traditional irrigation system and taste deglet nour dates. If time allows, visit the mountain oases of Chebika, Tamerza and Mides, or the film sets of Ong Jemel, with a local guide.
Our tips
- Go between October and April: days are pleasant, but desert nights can be cold, so bring a warm jacket.
- Fill up the tank whenever you can and carry plenty of water: petrol stations are further apart in the south.
- Never venture off paved roads on your own; for the dunes, go with a recognised guide or agency.
- The mountain oases lie close to the Algerian border: check your own government's travel advice before going.
- Protect yourself from sun and sand: a scarf or hat, sunglasses and sunscreen are essential even in winter.