The trip is done by car, which leaves you free to stop at a village, a market or an olive grove. Driving stages stay reasonable, and you can keep the same base around Sousse for several nights instead of packing your bags every morning.
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Day 1 — Tunis
Start with the Tunis medina, a UNESCO World Heritage site. Enter through Bab Bhar, the Sea Gate, and let the specialised souks guide you: perfume sellers, chechia hat makers, fabrics, copperware. The Zitouna Mosque at its centre is mostly enjoyed from outside and from the lanes around it. In the afternoon, head to the Bardo Museum, famous for one of the world's richest collections of Roman mosaics; check before you go that it is open and which rooms are accessible. End the day with a stroll along Avenue Habib Bourguiba, lively in the early evening.
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Day 2 — Carthage and Sidi Bou Said
Drive to the northern suburbs to visit Carthage, whose archaeological remains are spread over several sites. Don't miss the Antonine Baths facing the sea, Byrsa Hill with its view over the gulf, the Punic ports and the Tophet. A single ticket usually covers several sites, so ask at the first entrance. Late in the afternoon, go up to Sidi Bou Said, with its white houses, studded blue doors and wooden window screens. Visit Dar Ennejma Ezzahra, the former palace of Baron d'Erlanger, then wait for sunset over the bay with a warm bambalouni doughnut in hand.
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Day 3 — Kairouan
Leave early and head inland to Kairouan, the first holy city of the Maghreb and a UNESCO site. The Great Mosque, founded by Uqba ibn Nafi, impresses with its vast courtyard and massive minaret; the courtyard is generally open to visitors outside prayer times, with clothing covering arms and legs. Next, visit the Mausoleum of Sidi Sahbi, known as the Barber's Mosque, with its superb tilework, and the Aghlabid Basins. In the medina, look for the Bir Barrouta well and taste makroudh, the local semolina and date pastry. In the evening, drive on to the Sousse area.
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Day 4 — El Jem
From your base in the Sahel, drive to El Jem through vast olive groves. The Roman amphitheatre, a World Heritage site, rises from the middle of the small town: it is one of the best preserved in the Roman world. Take your time climbing the tiers and exploring the underground galleries where wild animals and gladiators once waited. Keep some time for the archaeological museum, a little away from the centre, which displays beautiful mosaics and a reconstructed Roman villa. Ideally arrive early in the morning or late in the day, when the light is soft and the site quieter.
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Day 5 — Sousse
Spend the day in Sousse, whose fortified medina is also listed by UNESCO. Climb the tower of the ribat, a fortress-monastery from the early centuries of Islam, for a sweeping view over white rooftops and the sea. Right next door, the Great Mosque, sober and powerful, can be visited in modest clothing outside prayer times. Then walk up through the medina to the kasbah, home to the archaeological museum and its remarkable mosaics. In the afternoon, enjoy the beach or stroll along the Boujaafar seafront, where families come out to walk in the evening.
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Day 6 — Monastir
Head to Monastir, Habib Bourguiba's birthplace, just next to Sousse. Its ribat, one of the oldest and most photogenic in the country, overlooks the sea and has served as a set for several films. Cross the esplanade to the Bourguiba Mausoleum, with its golden dome and twin minarets, which traces the life of Tunisia's first president. Walk along the marina and the small seafront facing the islets. The afternoon is perfect for a swim on the beaches nearby or for grilled fish at the neighbouring fishing harbour.
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Day 7 — Hammamet
Drive back north to Hammamet, a historic seaside resort that has kept much of its charm. Its small white medina, encircled by ramparts at the water's edge, is easy to explore on foot; climb up to the kasbah for the view over the beach. Then visit the International Cultural Centre, set in Georges Sebastian's villa and gardens, which hosts a festival every summer. Enjoy a last swim or a hammam before heading back to Tunis or the airport, leaving plenty of margin for traffic as you approach the capital.
Our tips
- Spring and autumn are the ideal seasons for this route: it is mild enough for sightseeing and the sea is often pleasant from late spring.
- For mosques and mausoleums, wear clothing that covers shoulders and knees; a scarf is useful for women.
- Opening times and access to sites can change: check on site or with tourist offices before each visit.
- Always keep some cash in dinars for entrance fees, parking and small purchases in the souks.
- Avoid driving at night on secondary roads and watch out for scooters and pedestrians when entering towns.
