Where to eat well in Tunisia

Medina, Rue Boukhrissan

A small family-run spot hidden in the medina's alleys. Diners praise the lamb couscous, the generous mezze platter and the very warm welcome. The entrance is easy to miss, so don't hesitate to ask for directions.

Medina, Rue de l'Ancienne Douane

A four-course set menu (two starters, a main and dessert) served in a handsome old house, with careful presentation. Excellent value and standout desserts; expect a short wait between courses.

Medina, Rue de la Kasbah

A café-restaurant run by a couple in the heart of the souks. Fish couscous, mloukhia and sardines come up again and again in reviews, and the owner happily shows you the catch of the day.

Medina, Rue de la Kasbah

A family restaurant with a homely feel, known for hearty Tunisian dishes and attentive service, including for dietary needs. Handy for lunch while exploring the medina.

Carthage, near Sidi Bou Said

Simple, inexpensive Tunisian cooking from an open kitchen: ojja, mechouia salad, chorba soup. A busy neighbourhood spot a short walk from the blue-and-white village.

Carthage

A small family-run place where everything is made to order. The speciality is malfouf, a rolled flatbread filled with chicken escalope or merguez. Perfect for a quick lunch between Carthage's sites and Sidi Bou Said.

La Marsa, Rue Salambo

A stylish setting and a wide choice of Tunisian dishes in generous portions. Ojja, brik, salads and homemade lemonade get the most mentions.

La Marsa, Rue Salambo

A small, cosy dining room away from the tourist circuit. Brik, grilled mechouia salad and fish or lamb couscous depending on the day.

Sidi Bou Said, village centre

For an Italian break in the heart of the village: pizzas and pasta among the best-rated in the area. Book ahead for groups, when service can slow down.

Hammamet, seafront

A cosy room with beach views at sunset. Seafood ojja and kamounia are favourites, alongside a few international classics. Non-smoking.

Place des Martyrs, opposite the medina

A restaurant-lounge facing the medina, lively in the evening, with attentive service. Some dishes are fiery, so ask for harissa on the side.

Yasmine Hammamet

The chef cooks the fish and seafood himself, across from the beach. The seafood platter for two, grilled sea bass and tuna brik are crowd-pleasers.

Hammamet, Rue de la Corniche

A safe bet for pasta and pizza in generous portions, with complimentary starters. Stick to the Italian dishes that made its name.

Medina, Souk el Kaied

A rooftop terrace in the medina with views over the city and port. Salad, soup and tea often come with your main: brik, merguez ojja or lamb couscous.

Medina, Rue des Remparts

An old-town institution: a full set meal (soup, salad, main, dessert and mint tea) at gentle prices. The fish and lamb are especially praised.

Sousse medina

A simple place popular with locals and visitors alike. Grilled fish and cuttlefish couscous at excellent value.

Medina, Rue Sidi Bouraoui

A traditional house with tiled walls and a short menu that includes a vegetarian option. A little hard to find in the lanes, but the setting is worth it.

Hammam Sousse, Khezama

One of the best-rated places in the area: generous Tunisian cooking and a smiling welcome. Soup, salad, ice cream and tea are often on the house.

Avenue Trimeche, between medina and marina

A small, intimate room with a short Tunisian menu; the owner takes time to explain every dish. A good stop between the medina and the marina.

Fishing port

An iconic fishing-port restaurant with ship-style decor. One multi-course set menu built around the day's catch: soup, salads, grills. No alcohol served.

Monastir

Attractive decor and home-style cooking: shrimp brik, ojja, grilled liver. Very busy in the evening, so arrive early.

Bab Essour

A small local restaurant devoted to couscous, including an octopus version. Big portions in a calm setting.

Midoun

The island's most-reviewed restaurant: a colourful room, daily specials (tajine, Djerban rice) and a wide choice of fresh juices. Also open for breakfast.

Houmt Souk, Avenue Taieb Mhiri

A large, beautifully decorated room in the town centre: lamb tajine, Djerban specialities and good vegetarian options. Mostly visitors.

Houmt Souk

A family terrace where the owner does the cooking. Couscous and grilled fish or prawns; you can even buy fish at the nearby market and have it grilled here.

Mezraya, tourist zone

Careful cooking (soup, fish with spinach) and a pleasant terrace; salad, starters and tea on the house. Booking advised; service is unhurried.

Rue Mohamed Ali El Ajimi

A tasting menu of Djerid specialities introduced by the owner: lamb couscous, chakchouka and more. Booking recommended.

Avenue Abou El Kacem Chebbi

Home cooking from southern Tunisia: beef couscous, clay-pot stews, outstanding harissa and lben (drinking yoghurt). Fills up fast once it opens in the evening.

Ouled El Hadef quarter

A rooftop café in the old town with colourful Berber decor: tea, coffee and shisha for an end-of-day break.

Medina, Rue Dar El Bey

Set in a historic medina mansion: Kairouan recipes made with local produce, often with a tour of the house by the family.

Kairouan

A beautifully decorated room, hearty plates and fair prices. Tour groups stop here at lunchtime, so go early or in the evening.

Avenue Okba Ibn Nafaa, near the Great Mosque

Handy location two minutes from the Great Mosque, air-conditioned, with generous starters. No alcohol, as everywhere in the holy city.

Rue Mongi Slim

A small, affordable fish restaurant with complimentary soup and rice. Balanced seasoning and a warm welcome.

Seafront

Sea views, local dishes and a generous brunch, with quick and friendly service.