Djerba is often known for its beaches and seafront hotels. But the island deserves far more than a week on a sun lounger. It is a land of whitewashed villages, discreet mosques, potters, fishermen and lively markets, where Muslim and Jewish communities have lived side by side for centuries. This unique way of settling the land earned the island a place on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2023.
Here are our 12 ideas for enjoying Djerba the way people who grew up here do. There is no need to do everything: choose according to your interests, the season and your pace. The island is flat and fairly compact, so you can see a lot in a few days by car, by scooter or even by bike.
1. Wander the souks of Houmt Souk
Houmt Souk, the island's small capital, is the best place to start. Its covered lanes are packed with jewellers, weavers, spice sellers and carpet merchants. Look up at the old fondouks, the caravanserais where traders once stayed with their animals and goods. In the morning, the fish market puts on a surprising show with its auctions, where sellers call out prices from a high chair.
2. Visit the Ghriba synagogue
Near the village of Erriadh, the Ghriba is one of the oldest synagogues in Africa and a key place for Djerba's Jewish community. Its blue-tiled interior, arches and painted woodwork are strikingly beautiful. Every spring it hosts a pilgrimage that draws worshippers from far away. Wear clothing that covers shoulders and knees, and check visiting conditions on site, as access may be restricted during religious holidays.
3. Discover the street art of Erriadh
In 2014, the Djerbahood project invited artists from around the world to paint the walls of Erriadh. The result is a village turned into an open-air gallery, where murals play with the white architecture, blue doors and patios. Many works have faded over time and others have been added, but the walk is still a real pleasure. Come early in the morning or late in the afternoon for the light and the cooler air, and be discreet: these are people's homes.
4. Meet the potters of Guellala
In the south of the island, Guellala has been the pottery village since antiquity. Clay is dug from the surrounding hills and shaped in half-buried workshops that stay cool. You can watch the craftsmen at the wheel and buy jars, dishes or water jugs straight from the source. On the nearby hill, a museum devoted to Djerba's heritage and traditions displays costumes, wedding rituals and local know-how.
5. Enjoy the east coast beaches
The finest sandy beaches stretch along the north-east coast, from Sidi Mahrez to La Seguia through the tourist zone. The water is usually calm and shallow, ideal for families. A few tips to make the most of them:
- In summer, go early in the morning or late in the day, when the sun is less harsh.
- Walk a little away from the hotels to find quieter stretches of sand.
- Bring water, a hat and sun protection: natural shade is rare.
- Swimwear is fine on the beach, but cover up when you head back into town or a village.
6. Sail to Flamingo Island
In the north-east, the Ras Rmel peninsula, nicknamed Flamingo Island, is a strip of sand surrounded by turquoise water. It is usually reached by boat from Houmt Souk on a day trip with swimming and lunch. Flamingos are mainly visible in certain seasons, often outside summer, so ask before booking. Choose a reputable operator and avoid overcrowded trips.
7. Admire the architecture of the Ibadi mosques
Djerba has hundreds of small mosques scattered across the countryside, some fortified, others partly underground. Many are linked to the Ibadi tradition, which has deep roots on the island. The Fadhloun mosque, with its plain white volumes, is the best known among visitors. These buildings tell a story of faith, defence against raids and adaptation to the climate. Admire them respectfully and ask before going inside.
8. Climb Borj El Kebir
Facing the sea on the edge of Houmt Souk, Borj El Kebir, also called Borj Ghazi Mustapha, is a fortress of medieval origin reworked in the 16th century. It was the scene of battles between the Spanish and the Ottomans. From the ramparts, the view over the fishing harbour and its colourful boats is superb, especially late in the day. Check opening days and times before you go.
9. Explore the countryside and menzels by bike
The heart of the island is its countryside: olive trees, palms, traditional wells and menzels, the whitewashed family farmsteads built around a courtyard and enclosed by earth banks. Because the island is flat, cycling is perfect for getting lost. Rent a bike for half a day, leave the main roads and let the small lanes guide you. You will pass weavers, shepherds and houses where time seems to stand still.
10. Taste Djerban cuisine
Don't leave without trying Djerban rice, steamed with vegetables, herbs and meat or fish, a staple of home cooking. Fish and seafood rule here: octopus, sea bream and sea bass, often simply grilled. Octopus is still caught with clay jars laid on the seabed. At the market, try dates, pastries and local olive oil. In small eateries, ask for the dish of the day: it is often the best choice.
11. Cross the Roman causeway to El Kantara
Djerba is linked to the mainland by a long causeway of ancient origin in the south-east, and by a ferry between Ajim and Jorf in the west. Near El Kantara lie the remains of Meninx, an ancient Roman city famed for its purple dye. The lagoon landscape, with its fishermen and birds, is worth the detour. Ajim, for its part, is known to film fans: some scenes from the first Star Wars were shot there.
12. Take a trip into southern Tunisia
Djerba makes an excellent base for exploring the south. In a long day you can reach Matmata and its troglodyte houses, or the ksour of the Tataouine region, fortified granaries perched on the hills. To reach the dunes of Douz or Ksar Ghilane, it is better to plan at least one night there. Set off early, take water and check road conditions.
Our practical tips for Djerba
- To get around freely, a rental car is the most practical option; taxis and louages fill the gaps.
- The best time to visit runs from spring to autumn; summer is very hot and very busy.
- Each village holds its market on a set day of the week: ask locally so you don't miss it.
- Always carry some dinars in small change for little purchases, the souks and tips.
- Dress modestly when visiting places of worship and villages.
In short
Djerba is best savoured slowly. Between a morning in the souk, an afternoon in the painted lanes of Erriadh, a boat trip and a dinner of grilled fish, you will discover an island far richer than its beaches. Take time to chat with the locals: their welcome is often the best memory of the trip. And if you feel like going further, the south and its deserts are only a few hours' drive away.
