Renting a car and driving in Tunisia: the practical guide

Renting a car is probably the best way to discover Tunisia at your own pace. Between the medinas of the north, the ancient sites of the Sahel, the island of Djerba and the oases of the south, the country is made for a road trip. You can stop in a village you like, set off early to beat the heat or improvise a detour to a quiet beach.

Driving in Tunisia does take a little getting used to, though. Traffic can be dense and unpredictable in cities, while the roads of the south cross wide open spaces where services are few and far between. Here is our local advice for renting with peace of mind and driving safely. Rules change, so always check your rental company's conditions and official information before you go.

Preparing your rental

You will find rental companies at airports, in the big cities and in tourist areas. Booking ahead is recommended in high season, especially in summer and during school holidays. Before signing, take time to read the contract and ask all your questions.

• Check the minimum age and years of licence required by the company, as they vary from one agency to another.
• Ask what the insurance covers, how much the excess is and what reduction options are offered.
• Find out how the security deposit works, often a hold on a credit card.
• Clarify the fuel policy, mileage and any fees for returning the car in another city.
• If you plan to use tracks, ask explicitly whether they are allowed: many contracts exclude them.

Documents to carry

Always keep in the car your driving licence, your passport or ID, the rental contract and the vehicle papers given by the agency. Depending on your country and the company's policy, an international driving permit may be required or recommended: check with the agency and your own country's authorities before leaving. Also keep the rental company's assistance number close at hand.

Checking the car at pick-up

The vehicle inspection is a key moment. Walk around the car with the agent and note every scratch or dent on the check-out form. Take photos and a short video, including the odometer and fuel gauge. Check the spare wheel, the jack, the air conditioning, the wipers and the lights. In the south, working air conditioning is no luxury.

Tunisian roads

Tunisians drive on the right. The network includes toll motorways linking Tunis to the Sahel and the south in particular, national and regional roads, and small country lanes. Motorways are generally in good condition and are the fastest option for long journeys. On secondary roads, quality is more variable: potholes, uneven verges and speed bumps that are sometimes poorly marked at village entrances.

Respect the posted speed limits, which often change as you approach built-up areas. Expect to share the road with lorries, tractors, carts, pedestrians, bicycles and sometimes herds of animals. Avoid driving at night outside towns whenever possible, as lighting is limited and some vehicles are poorly lit.

Driving in cities

Tunis, Sousse or Sfax can feel intimidating at rush hour. Lane changes are frequent, the horn is mostly used to signal your presence and roundabouts call for attention. Stay calm and drive defensively.

• Anticipate sudden stops by taxis and louages picking up or dropping off passengers.
• Watch out for pedestrians crossing away from crossings and for scooters weaving through traffic.
• Don't drive into the medinas: the lanes are narrow and often reserved for residents.
• Use a navigation app, but keep an eye on road signs and one-way streets.

Driving in the south and the desert

The south has some of the country's most beautiful roads, across the salt flats, the oases and the Matmata mountains. Distances between towns can be long and petrol stations further apart. Fill up whenever you can, carry plenty of water and let someone know your route.

Watch out for sand drifting over the road in places, especially in strong wind, and for camels crossing. Desert tracks are another matter: they require a four-wheel drive, experience and often a guide. Some border or Saharan areas may require a permit; check with the local authorities before heading there.

Parking

In city centres, parking can be difficult. Follow the markings on the road and kerbs, as badly parked cars can be fined or clamped. In many neighbourhoods and near beaches, attendants keep an eye on cars for a small tip. At night, choose a guarded car park or the space offered by your accommodation, and never leave valuables visible inside.

Fuel

Petrol stations are plentiful along the main roads and in towns, but scarcer in rural areas and the south. Service is usually provided by an attendant: say which fuel and how much you want, and check that the pump is reset to zero. Carry cash, as cards are not accepted everywhere. Never let the tank run too low before a long stretch.

Road checkpoints

Police and National Guard checkpoints are common, especially at town entrances and on major roads. Slow down as you approach, stay polite and show your documents if asked. Often a simple wave of the hand tells you to carry on. Speed checks also exist. As for drinking and driving, the simplest rule is not to drink at all before getting behind the wheel.

In case of breakdown or accident

• Get to safety, switch on your hazard lights and set up the warning triangle if you have one.
• Call the rental company's assistance line first; they will tell you what to do.
• After an accident, have an accident report drawn up and inform the police if necessary.
• Don't let anyone repair the vehicle without the rental company's approval.

Our final tips

• Download offline maps: mobile coverage can be weak in parts of the south.
• Keep coins and small notes for tolls, car parks and attendants.
• Avoid driving during the hottest hours in summer and take regular breaks.
• Allow extra time: journeys often take longer than expected.

In short

Driving in Tunisia is a great adventure for anyone willing to adapt. With a well-checked car, the right documents, careful driving and a little patience in cities, the country opens up to you, from the cliffs of Tabarka to the dunes of the south. Before leaving, reread your rental company's conditions and check your own country's official travel advice: you will set off with peace of mind.